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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.